One of the hardest aspects of re-acclimating to life in America has been getting reacquainted with the carnivorous tendencies of my mother culture. I’m not a vegetarian; I never could be. I love burgers and ribs and chicken and all that fleshy, juicy complete protein. But it seems to me that our culture is a bit too gung-ho with flesh, and it’s fairly limiting in the kinds of protein readily available: beef, chicken, pork, repeat.
Brisket. Tasty and meaty.
Pork is like the cheese of China: it’s added to everything, even vegetable dishes. In fact, it is notoriously difficult to be a vegetarian in China. But the vast array of protein choices—beef, chicken, pork, fish, crab, dog, eggs, beans, donkey, eel, and the infinite permutations of tofu—leave me feeling restricted by my choices in America and thinking, Beef AGAIN?
So. Much. Meat
I feel especially listless when confronted with the utter lack of tofu in this country. Grocery stores that sell tofu feature no more than 2 square feet of actual tofu—the rest of the soy product shelf is made up of nutritionally vacant Hungry Girl Shiritaki diet noodles and soy cheeses and meats that taste like metal socks.
Where is all the tofu?
Living in China, I learned that meat doesn’t need to be—nay, is better when not—the centerpiece and majority of the food on the table. There is plenty of opportunity left to consume enough meat protein while filling up on other necessary things like carbohydrates and fiber. (Meanwhile we add fiber to things that do not naturally contain fiber, like cheese and yogurt. The person who can add extra fiber to ice cream will be a rich person indeed.)
Nuts! Alternative source of protein!
I have no illusions that this will suddenly make everyone switch from pot roast and steak to mapo tofu and tofu stir fry. If it did, the USDA would probably bludgeon me with a giant, bloody cow hock for decreasing their profits. To be sure, I firmly believe that no one should tell anyone what or how to eat. Yet I mourn the sad state of soy-based affairs: one 14-ounce pack costs $3 US—in China, it is a third of the price. I realize I’m not in China anymore, but it is frustrating that America refuses to sell fresh fruits, vegetables, and soy for an affordable price instead of virtually forcing those of us on a budget into meals of meat slabs of questionable content with French fries as our vegetable. (For a more detailed analysis of this, read Mark Bittman’s A Food Manifesto for the Future)
Make vegetables taste good: Spicy Vietnamese Cabbage
I’m not trying to turn this into an Amy Chua-style Battle Hymn of the Tiger Diner, and I am refraining from noting the huge disparity in waistlines of each country (though China may soon narrow the gap and widen their waists; there is certainly no shortage of processed crap and foods of suspicious quality). It seems though that America is simultaneously diet- and health-obsessed yet completely unwilling to give up meat, potatoes, and soda in exchange for tofu, vegetables, and water.
Do it the China way: use a little meat to flavor a lot of vegetables.
While in China, I went through what I later discovered was a Splenda-induced period of horrific acne. Before I discovered the culprit, I fielded many health tips, including “Drink hot water first thing in the morning” and, by far the most common, “It must be something you’re eating. Eat more fruits and vegetables.” Had I dealt with the situation in America, no doubt the solution would have involved medicine and maybe even a second round on Accutane, which peeled and split my lips and skin during high school in a last-ditch effort to conquer those silly hormones.
So what at first seemed like tofu withdrawal is in fact a reverse culture shock-induced disagreement with the fundamental diet of my country of origin. I’ve lamented to Gerald more than once about the overall dismal state of food (though I will say, I’ve had great pizza) in America.
Instead of the occasional cravings for cheese I had while in China, I am now haunted by desire for the velvety stewed eggplant and crisp rich vegetables of Asia.
Velvety vegetarian Vietnamese eggplant.
Veggie stir-fry in Nanjing.
Ultimately, I am the master of what goes in my mouth, but what goes in my mouth is ultimately shaped by the culture in which I reside.
What experiences have you had with cultural cuisines? For Americans, what’s your take? For non-Americans, what’s your take?
I think you suffer from the same problem I do: a reluctance to preach even though your work is cut out for you.
Check Dean out: http://dean.runnersworld.com/2011/02/call-to-action.html … you seriously need to get more vocal. And pictoral, because your food pics are really enticing!
American meat glut. Yuck. In the US, “home cooking” means gloppy, bland fat-laden heapin’ helpings. But Asian, Indian or other ethnic foods are generally accepted as more flavorful, yet Americans cling to their insipid fare. Let’s go back to Suzhou and eat at that place that served Mao’s favorite pork dish. Yum!
Wow! A very impressive blog on a very, very sensitive issue here in the US! I really appreciate your approach and how you offer solutions from another culture. Your imagery is impressive as well! Shooting food as you know is very difficult to make it look edible and not to contrived, great job. Knowing your Dad, it’s easy to see where you get your talents. Keep up the good work.
@Rick Thanks for the comment, and for the kind words about my blog and photography, though my photos are no match for the gorgeous photos I saw on your blog!
It’s too bad food is such a sensitive issue here, it seemed to me to be much less sensitive in China. Advice in general shows caring for well-being, yet here it’s seen as an infringement upon individual choice. Very interesting.
It was incredibly depressing coming back to the US, looking at a menu and seeing only chicken, beef, and bacon. Where were my eggplant?! My bamboo? My multitude of tofu? Or even different cuts of meat, like pork belly? And that’s when I learned find a good Asian market and cook it all myself.
Hi Stasi, thanks for sharing your experience! I have definitely located the Asian markets and have a number of Asian and Chinese recipes under my belt. I’m working towards making more Asian recipes, and sharing them here. Do you have any killer tofu or eggplant recipes? I’d love if you’d share, and of course I’d give you the credit!
See if you can find an Asian market near you – they tend to have pretty good tofu/soy selection (and they are spreading to more areas as well). I also miss the selection and ease of accessibility of vegetables that I had while living in Beijing (there was a small market on the ground floor of my apt complex that I could stop by on the way home from work each night).
As a vegan, I’m all for less meat and more veggies! (Am I too biased?).
Man, as always, your entries make me desperately hungry. I shouldn’t have read this before eating dinner.
Haha, unfortunately no original recipes from me. Probably all of my favorite/best dishes are tiny tweaks from other, much better cooks than I. Generally online cooks, but both of Fuschia Dunlop’s books are excellent.
@Jenn, yes, I miss those apartment complex markets! I do take advantage of the Asian markets that I can find–and actually I find one of the biggest hurdles to be fresh and affordable veggies. They’re either not fresh, not affordable, or both.
@Jocelyn, you’re biased, but in a good way.
Glad I can still make you hungry!
@Stasi, Thanks for reminding me of Fuschia Dunlop. I also like her books and will get on cooking some of her recipes. You’ll see the results on here soon!
So glad you are back to Plate of Wander! Like you, I have become increasingly interested in food and nutrition lately, while realizing what a mess our country is in that regard. A book I am currently reading suggested that processed food is what saved the world’s population from mass famine in the past 50 years. I doubt the author would argue that processed food continues to be a solution, but it certainly has become ingrained in our society and economy. We’re going to need to find new ways to keep food prices down while not wreaking havoc on land/ air/ water.
Also, if you use epicurious as much as I do you might already know this recipe, but it was a huge hit at the all-中国人 New Years party I went to this weekend. http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Warm-Tofu-with-Spicy-Garlic-Sauce-351871
Hi Ellis,
I’m so glad Gerald introduced me to your site. I’m forwarding a “Stylish Blogger Award” to you. I look forward to reading more.
http://ramblingspoon.com/blog/?p=3531
Cheers,
Karen
@Karen, Welcome! I’m so glad Gerald steered you here. And thank you for the Stylish Blogger Award!
Gerald’s steered me to your site before as well and I’ve always enjoyed it, but now diving more deeply I am thoroughly impressed. Such gorgeous photography and writing, I can’t wait to go through all the great articles and recipes you have.
@Theora, what’s the title of the book you’re reading? It sounds very interesting. And thanks for the recipe link, it sounds delish. Tell the 中国人 I say 你好！哈哈哈
Here via Karen at Rambling Spoon, and I’ve spent a good bit of the morning reading through your old entries. It’s been great to get a glimpse into a kind of ex-pat life that’s quite different from mine in Frankfurt, Germany! And I completely agree with you about how wild it is that meat takes such a central role in American (and, okay, German) cooking. Growing up, basically every dinner I ate at home was meat, starch, vegetable, approximately equal quantities of each, never touching on the plate. So different from how much of the world eats, it’s crazy.
I could really relate to this post after living in Thailand and moved back to Canada I experienced the same thing. I really like the idea of using meat as a compliment to the meal and not the main course as well. Great post!
[...] is well known to be pretty heavy and strong on meats; much of American cooking seems to have gone completely overboard with that. No wonder, then, that those concerned with healthy eating would be very concerned about [...]